By Emily Rauhala
THE WASHINGTON POST - December 14, 2015
TONGREN, China — Two photographs grace
the walls of the Tibetan farmer’s home. In the courtyard, affixed with
silver tacks: Xi Jinping, smiling. Inside, by the light of a yak butter
candle: the Dalai Lama in monk’s robes.
Here, in a region called
Qinghai in Chinese and Amdo in Tibetan, in a town known as Tongren or
Rebkong, depending on whom you ask, things exist in disparate pairs: Two
portraits. Two languages. A public face and a private heart.
Even that, it seems, is not enough.
Local
officials this year issued a 20-point notice that reaches ever further
into the lives of Tibetans here in what’s long been a cradle of Tibetan
culture, a thriving monastery town where people proudly speak their
native tongue and tout the artists who paint scrolls called thangkas.
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