By Annemarie Strassel
Dissent Magazine - Spring 2014
The 2013 collapse of the Rana Plaza garment factory in Bangladesh
evoked iconic moments in labor history when primarily young, female
participants in the garment industry suffered and organized for their
lives. Today, the chain of young, female, often migrant labor stretches
from the ruined factories of Bangladesh to global style centers like New
York and London, where legions of underpaid or unpaid interns, models,
and other workers form a creative underclass. In the United States, many
have few or no protections under the National Labor Relations Act. And
unlike factory workers, the creative side of the industry is just
beginning to organize. Both sides are working to close the geographic
and conceptual space dividing fashion and labor.
In September 2013 Nautica’s Spring 2014 runway show was interrupted
by an unusual coalition of models and Bangladeshi garment workers,
protesting the company’s failure to sign a factory safety accord backed
by Calvin Klein, Zara, and other major labels. Spearheading the effort
was Kalpona Akter, a former child factory worker turned executive
director of the Bangladesh Center for Worker Solidarity, and Sara Ziff,
the head of Model Alliance, an advocacy organization for models.
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