A country in search of tourism Zimbabwe's troubles scared tourists away, but tour operators are pushing it again. Is travel there rewarding, asks Kevin Rushby, and is it right?
Kevin Rushby
The Guardian, Friday 2 November 2012
Ray squats down and inspects the tracks carefully, his rifle held in
the crook of one arm. "These are from yesterday," he says, pointing to
where the fine dusty edge of the print has been blurred by the breeze.
"It's a big male – very big. The one we heard roaring just before dawn."
That
was an hour ago. I glance around the silent trees, half expecting to
see a big cat staring back at me. Ray gets up and searches the ground
nearby. "Looks like there are two lionesses with him," he says.
We
walk on through the dry forest. At a glance the area looks dead, but
closer inspection reveals signs of recovery: green shoots are appearing,
the trees are gambling on rain coming soon. Ray leads on for about a
mile then stops and inspects another lion print. This time the track is
fresh. There is a stiff breeze blowing but the print is perfect. Ray
nods and says: "They were moving around this morning." He glances at me.
"Remember the rules. Stay with the gun. Never run."
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